By the time we reached the starting point of our short trek, Hilley, the rains stopped briefly, only to change its form to drizzles. We got our permits to enter the rhododendron sanctuary and geared up ourselves with trekking poles, waterproof ponchos, water bottles and dry food – a few almonds, dried apricots, dates, chocolates and Jolbhora Sandesh from the famous ‘Balaram and Radharaman Mullick’s’ sweet shop. Our trek, however, was a short one, only about 8-9 Kilometres up to Varsey and down to Hilley again.

On barely reaching a distance of 150-200 metres, the icy cold hailstones started to hit us like shards of glass. Our bare hands went numb for some time, and the easy trail turned a bit tricky in some patches due to the incessant drizzles which made the trail a bit slippery. Some puddles formed too. Our cautious feet were cleverly carrying us near our goal, the Rhododendron forests, located further upslope.

Nevertheless, the weather setting couldn’t dampen our uplifted moods which released the sighs of appreciation while viewing the blooms of rhododendrons – the bright red, pink, white and fuchsia clusters interspersed with the broad green leaves. Even though the yield suffered this year due to the untimely snowfall, the mere presence of the flowers mesmerized us. It seemed that the nature had embroidered the blue canopy above with the vibrant flowers and their leaves.

The corridor along which we trekked was well guarded by the Chinese bamboo plants on one side, and Rhododendron trees on the other. The variant shades of green were well interrupted by the variant shades of the quaint blossoms.

We walked with our heads looking above, beyond and towards different geometrical degrees, but seldomly below, the one with the wet mud. It was quite difficult for us to choose which way to observe, – the moist, puddled trail with the gingerly sights or up above and around the pretty and decked up flowers. Well, both were necessary, the trail with a seldom glance to walk safely, above and around to witness the floral extravaganza.

As we approached further, we could see a pinkish wood beckoning us vigorously. For a brief moment, we became so dazed that we forgot that a woodland is generally described as green rather than the pink we saw there. The hearty calling made us walk faster to reach the place. Our weary feet refused to budge but our minds enforced our feet to propel us forward.

As soon as we reached the last point, an outlandish mound in Varsey, we literally gave ourselves away to the flowery temptations. A feeling of overwhelm gripped us. We were lost! The cool mists and winds hugged us with ecstasy and we couldn’t turn down the welcoming glances of the pretty red, pink, fuchsia, magenta rhododendrons and raised the toast to the success of our Hilley – Varsey trek with the bites from the box of Jolbhora Sandesh – for no other way of celebrating would have been as sweeter.

We took rest for half an hour before starting our journey back to Hilley. Like other journeys, the way back wasn’t as merry. We missed staying back upon the mound admiring the flowers, but, the harsh reality of our lives is we cannot enjoy good moments for long. The trail back to Hilley seemed unending. We huffed, puffed and longed to get back to a comfort of an eatery. With our tummies growling loudly, we had to pace ahead towards the entrance gate. Later, as we sat to have a simple lunch at Hilley beside a fireplace, we reminisced the floral getaway and never stopped admiring the wonders of our nature.

Important Details of this trek:

Accommodation

a) We stayed in Rinchenpong (West Sikkim) and drove for about 2.5 – 3 hours to Hilley.

b) If you want to stay inside the sanctuary or nearby Varsey, you would need to book rooms in Guras Kunj or carry your own tents. No other accomodation is available except Guras Kunj.

c) Another alternative is to stay in Okhrey or Hilley and do the trek.

d) You might want to take your family members and relatives who are senior citizens if they are fit and willing to. It’s a doable trek for them (I took my mother in law who suffers from a knee problem). Take care to keep yourselves hydrated and not to forget carrying chocolates and dates which provide us with instant energy.

e) If you take the senior members (as discussed in the above point) along, it is advisable to stay at Okhrey, Hilley or Rinchenpong and complete the trek in a day as we did because it can be an ordeal for our seniors to stay in tents.  

Approximate time taken

The entire trek took about 4 – 4.5 hours to complete. (Walking up to Varsey and coming back to Hilley.) We drove back to Rinchenpong on the same day.

Best Season

The best time to experience the Rhododendron extravaganza is from the last week of March to mid-May.

The post Hilley, the Haven of Rhododendrons appeared first on KolkataFusion.

I tend to seek refuge in the Himalayas. The lofty ranges, the green trees, the valleys and the moors of the Himalayas help me to rediscover myself again and again.

Running away to the mighty mountains gives me solace every time the hard routines of life rebukes me and intimidates me with its fiery red eyes.

A few months ago, along with my family members, I went to the sleepy Himalayan settlement of Rinchenpong in the western part of Sikkim. The entire region seemed to be well-adorned with flowers to celebrate the spring carnival, – the small, simple and pretty forget-me-nots, the Red Lillies, the Arum Lillies, the Bleeding Hearts, the Poppies, the Foxgloves, the Salvias, the Pansies, the Daisies, the Poinsettias, the spiny Rhododendrons, the Orchids and many unknowns added dashes of colours and made the region more verdant and vibrant.

After a 5 hour-long journey from New Jalpaiguri, all of us were quite tired. The limbs wanted to recline in the comforts of the hotel we were staying in but the heart wanted to wander around. As a sincere listener of heart on all occasions, I went out for a stroll. The road headed towards the unknown. I took short strides ahead. The Buddhist prayer flags greeted me and fluttered in the cool breeze with absolute glee. Some unknown birds chirped about their daily chores. As I moved ahead, I heard the crickets singing an unknown song. Perhaps, a song of melancholy, or, perhaps a welcome song for a two-legged animal who calls herself civilized. The Pine trees stood tall and protected the flower shrubs, creepers, grassy and mossy green carpets like the responsible elders.

I stopped and took in deep breaths – the abundant and unleashed pure air to help me go on for a few more months until the schedule of my next refuge. The air which I took in had a sweet, slightly pungent, intoxicating and wild fragrance. Was it of the Pines? I really don’t know. The fragrance had the quality or vice to turn anyone into a life-long wanderer. The fragrance mocked the civilization and its advancements and laughed devilishly at the attempts to harness its source. I started climbing up a flight of mossy stairs. They led me to a place where the slightly crowded settlement of Kaluk waved and beckoned from a distance.

I quietly told myself, “maybe next day” and headed back to the hotel.

Next day, we went to our Rhododendron adventure and came back to Rinchenpong late in the evening. We couldn’t explore much of Rinchenpong on that day. The Kanchenjunga, too, did not smile at us at all.

The day after, we woke up to a bright, warm, sunny weather. As we peeped outside of our glassy window, the Kanchenjunga smiled warmly. She stood tall with all her pristine and spotlessly white mighty peaks, flanked by the Mt. Kumbhakarna from the left, the Simvo twins and Siniolchu, guarded her from the right.

The day was so bright that we couldn’t hold ourselves back and went out for a hike down the slopes towards Tato Pani.

The entire region seemed to be having a gala time, with the treetops lightly swaying their heads, the flowers dotting the green slopes and the children playing in the football ground basking in the warm sun. Our sojourn could not be carried on further as our tummies growled with hunger. We headed back for lunch. The lunch platter was an amazing one. The ‘gundruk’ soup made with locally available ingredients and the dried shrimp curry were absolutely delicious.

After lunch, we, the younger turks of the group, instantly made a plan to hike up 3 Kilometers to Kaluk. The road was a smooth, pitched one with the Pine guardians strictly guarding each of its curvaceous turns. The walk was a pleasant one. We took relaxed strides ahead. The intoxicating fragrance went along with us. The quaint mountain scenes elevated us to speechless appreciators. But, frankly speaking, Kaluk failed to live up to our expectations.

What more can a crowded settlement, crowded shops and crowded luxurious resorts with people hankering over Kanchenjunga’s sight from the rooftops offer to the ones who were smitten by the simplicity of Rinchenpong? With a deep despise we turned down on the left side of the unkempt road towards a village called Boom. The pathfinding plackard showed that it was just 1.75 Kilometers down Kaluk. Whether we really wanted to explore the place or not, I don’t know, but in a state of trance, we moved ahead. However, sadly enough a loud rumble in the clouds above us pushed us back to our senses and we decided to return because we were not equipped for the sudden rainfall. Thanks to the friendly cab driver who favoured us by transporting us back to our Rinchenpong hotel.

The conventions of the civic life we are used to, threw us back to the din of the city. Our workplaces waited for our attendance. Honestly, I did not want to come back so early. I just wanted to stay back and seep in the flavour of the place slowly just like a wine enthusiast seeps in some exotic old wine. I really longed to go back to the pitch-dark nights illuminated by the humble lights of the mountain hamlets. I longed to go back and spend a night under the stars and several known and unknown constellations. I longed to go back to the life of a rambler roaming around the mountains and going on a high after inhaling the intoxicating fragrance of the wild forests. Yes, there’s no escape from the mountains, Mr. Ruskin Bond. I can’t but totally agree to the words you spoke with such a conviction,

“It is always the same with mountains. Once you have lived with them for any length of time, you belong to them. There is no escape.”

– Ruskin Bond, Rain in the Mountains: Notes from the Himalayas

How to reach Rinchenpong and where to stay

i) Reach New Jalpaiguri Jn on any NJP bound train. 

ii) Take a cab directly to Rinchenpong. It would take about 5 or 5.5 hours to reach the place.

Hotels and resorts in Rinchenpong:

1. Rinchenpong Nest
2. Orchid Villa Homestay
3. Yangsum Heritage Farm

Photography Courtesy: Avik Das

First published as a post in the facebook group “Weekend Tours From Kolkata”

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